Design theft: Prada copies traditional Indian sandals

Prada 's flat men's sandals, presented last week at Milan Fashion Week , were simply called "leather sandals." But these seemingly harmless summer slippers are fraught with controversy. Accusations have been leveled, particularly from the Indian fashion industry, the arts and crafts sector, and politicians: The design is a copy of the traditional Kolhapuri chappals, named after the city of Kolhapur in the western Indian state of Maharashtra .

The handmade sandals, with their intricately interwoven pattern, can be traced back to the 12th century. Prada hasn't yet brought them to market. However, if they were released as a luxury model, the price could exceed 1,000 euros (approximately 1,200 US dollars) per pair. In contrast, authentic Kolhapuri sandals cost the equivalent of about 10 euros in local markets.

Prada gives in

Following an outcry on social media, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce called on the Italian fashion house to acknowledge the Indian origin of the design.

And indeed, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada's sustainability manager and son of the company's founders, responded in a letter to the Chamber. According to the Reuters news agency, the letter states: "We recognize that the sandals are inspired by traditional Indian handicrafts, which carry a rich cultural history."

Bertelli added that the piece is still in the design phase and may never go on sale. However, Prada is "committed to creating responsibly, promoting cultural exchange, and engaging in dialogue with local artisan communities" to properly recognize their work, as it has done with previous collections.

Not the first case of cultural appropriation

Design theft and cultural appropriation regularly spark debates in the fashion industry . British designer Paul Smith was already under fire in 2014: His shiny black sandals, called "Robert," closely resembled the traditional Peshawari chappal from Pakistan —but were about 20 times more expensive than the original.

After massive criticism on social networks and an online petition, Smith finally added the note that his model was inspired by the Peshawari sandal.

Indian handicrafts should be protected

In response to the current case, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce announced that it would seek an international patent for the Kolhapuri sandals in the future.

Within India, they already enjoy the so-called GI tag, along with more than 600 other products: a geographical protection for products that actually originate from a specific region and are produced there using traditional methods. In Europe, this applies to French champagne from the Champagne region or, in Germany, Black Forest ham. A prominent example from India is Darjeeling tea from a region in West Bengal.

Support for the manufacturers of national products also comes from politics: Member of Parliament Dhananjay Mahadik, who represents the Kolhapur constituency and belongs to the ruling BJP party, supports the local craft businesses that have filed a lawsuit with the Supreme Court in Mumbai.

Obstacles to the craft: religious tensions

While there is support from politicians, religiously motivated violence is now endangering traditional crafts - especially leather procurement.

Since the Hindu nationalist BJP under Prime Minister Narendra Modi came to power in 2014, extremist groups have felt increasingly empowered to crack down on the trade in cows, which are considered sacred in Hinduism . The self-proclaimed cow protectors repeatedly attack people transporting or slaughtering cattle.

The attacks are primarily directed against Muslims, who are accused of slaughtering cattle or trading in beef - and especially against the Dalits, who are among the lowest caste in traditional Indian society, are considered "untouchables" and are particularly affected by discrimination.

However, many of the artisans who have passed on the techniques for making Kolhapuri sandals – and thus also the cowhide – come from the Dalit community. The group "Dalit Voice," which campaigns against discrimination based on caste, origin, or profession, posted on Instagram: The sandals are more than just a fashion item – they represent "history, identity, and resistance." Their appeal: "Respect the roots."

Adapted from English by Silke Wünsch