Armando Aristarco, the chef conquering Zurich with the flavors of the Amalfi Coast

But can a flavor, a dish, be a reason to return? Tickle an emotion to the point of making it necessary to relive it? Armando Aristarco, Executive Chef of Caruso at Belmond Hotel Amalfi Coast, demonstrates this easily. If to this hypothesis, this possibility, we then add a propitious occasion, a project born of enlightened intuition, and the coincidences that intervene in our lives more than a lucky roll of the dice, then the game is done. But we must start from the beginning. Armando Aristarco returned from Zurich on August 21st: for three evenings he delighted the guests of the Eden Kitchen & Bar at the Hotel La Reserve Eden au Lac in the Swiss city, home to Michelin-starred Executive Chef Marco Ortolani, with his dishes—which I call "sirens," both as a fitting tribute to his Neapolitan origins and because they perfectly balance sea and land—with dishes that I call "sirens," both as a fitting tribute to his Neapolitan origins and because they perfectly balance sea and land. In May, Marco Ortolani did the same: after leaving Zurich, he joined Armando at Caruso and was the protagonist of an extraordinary four-handed dinner where the Torre del Greco chef's Mediterranean flair embraced the gastronomic philosophy of Eden Kitchen & Bar. Armando still has the fresh, green light of Zurich in his eyes, perhaps even a few suitcases to unpack at home, but above all, a series of emotions to share. We have just a few minutes before, having shed the guise of the chef who came from Southern Italy to conquer Zurich, he dives back into the lively atmosphere of home, among the ceramics, basil, and tomatoes of the Caruso Grill, or into the simple virtuosity—the oxymoron with him is obligatory—of his stage for talent: the Belvedere Restaurant.
Chef, what was the first smell or taste that struck you when you entered Marco Ortolani's kitchen? Besides the warmth of the chef and his team, who surrounded us with affection—a warmth also emanating from his all-brick kitchen, an excellent visual conduit for the emotions we experienced—I can tell you that more than a smell or a taste, I was struck by a color: the bright green that completed the space, perfectly in tune with the outside, with the landscape, and capable of making you feel immediately at home.
Your recent experience in Zurich could be considered a kind of exchange: Marco Ortolani, in May, brought his culinary philosophy and flavors to Caruso, the Amalfi Coast. Now it was your turn to "return the favor." But what did you give each other? The first type of exchange was certainly cultural, then we shared our gastronomic philosophies, which I would define as absolutely similar. We both love working with simple ingredients and dishes that limit technicalities in favor of flavor. I certainly appreciated Marco's precise and meticulous organization despite the limited space, two small kitchens, and a broad and extremely varied menu. I truly admired his consistency and precision. For my part, I can say that I brought and shared my simple yet extremely distinctive flavors. My Pomo d'Oro, for example, in its almost ancestral simplicity, is characterized by many different textures that transform the dish into a sort of treasure chest of wonders. And, with satisfaction, I can say that it was appreciated just as much as here on the Amalfi Coast. And then Nu' Burdell, another iconic dish from Ristorante Belvedere, launched in 2023 and still a regular feature, even in Zurich. It was Marco himself who asked me to offer it at his restaurant after trying it here at Caruso in May.
Three evenings, each different from the others. Which one will you remember for a long time, based on the guests' feedback or a particular emotion? The first evening was certainly the most exciting because it was the "inaugural" moment, and the most beautiful aspect to underline is that the interaction between the two teams, with myself and my talented colleagues Christian Di Sario and Brayen Chellumbrun, was perfect from the start. Indeed, I would like to take this opportunity to thank the Director of the Caruso, Iolanda Mansi , who made it all possible, and the kitchen team that remained at the Caruso, led by Chef Alfonso Sorrentino , who ensured flawless service in my absence. We blended seamlessly with Marco Ortolani's team; I felt like I'd always worked with them. The second evening was the one where the weight of debut excitement was already a little less heavy, so we were more relaxed and ready to have fun. The third evening brought us incredible satisfaction, as we actually overbooked. The guests were happy and satisfied, and it was wonderful when two guests, residents of Zurich, who had vacationed at Caruso a week earlier, joined us. When they heard about our presence at Eden Kitchen & Bar, they decided to book a table to try my dish again: Nu'Burdell.
Zurich and Ravello, Eden Kitchen & Bar and Belvedere Restaurant: two seemingly different places and two seemingly distant gastronomic experiences, yet they actually have much in common, from the idea of simple yet impactful cuisine to the location that ensures symbiosis with the landscape. If you could create a dish that perfectly represents the fusion of these two experiences, what ingredients would you use? The first element that comes to mind is water. La Reserve Eden au Lac in Zurich overlooks the lake, our Caruso focuses on the blue of the coastal sea. Both places are surrounded by mountains, and I think the ideal dish to represent us would be composed of vegetables and fruit, simultaneously evoking both the lake and seascapes. So I think of mountain herbs that meet the minerality of our vegetables, characterized by volcanic influences and saltiness. A sort of new version of my Campo Fiorito, finished with a touch of wild herbs, greenery, and wildness. It's like assembling the elements of a great orchestra and achieving the perfect performance. The interview with Chef Armando Aristarco ends here: who knows if it's raining in Zurich right now, or if the scent of the coming season is rising intensely over the lake? Armando Aristarco perhaps knows, or he could try to guess. But now it's time for home, for all the things to come and that will have the flavor only he can create. A recognizable flavor, and one for which, of course, we return.
İl Denaro